RE: New Shocks
I replaced the factory shocks on my 2002 RT Chev 190P this spring (6 years on the factory shocks)(along with 4 new Toyo Open Country H/T tires) even though they hade only about 25K miles. The factory shocks were not leaking and the bounce test didn't indicate any need to replace the shocks but I did anyway in hopes that it would improve the ride and handling, which wasn't all that bad with the factory shocks.
It was well worth it. The ride and handling improved as much or more than I had hoped. How much was due to the shocks and how much due to the tires I can't tell, but I'm glad I made the change.
I got the mono-tube shocks from Les Schwab and they have a lifetime warranty, parts and labor, so I will never have to worry about them again. Also, if you can wait for them to go on sale it makes it all the easier to make the switch.
RE: 06 RT 190 Onan 2.8 troubles
My experience with RV service shop or RV dealer service of my 2800 MicroLite Onan in my 2002 C190P RT has not been good. The only service for the Generator I can count on is the local Onan distributor's service center - Cummins NorthWest in Portland, OR. One problem is that the gen set must be adjusted while under load or it's not going to work right. I've never seen an RV service shop or dealer's shop put a load on the generator while adjusting the output, or even an RV service shop that even has a load bank for adjusting generators.
Suggest you locate your local Onan Generator Distributor and talk to their service guys (or gals).
RE: Two useful class B / Roadtrek "improvements"
I like seeing the little "improvements" that people make to their RoadTreks. Thanks.
Sometimes they, or a slight variation, could be implemented in my 2002 C190P, sometimes not. I wonder if there are two RoadTreks out there that are actually identical? Seems that even units of the same year and model are each slightly different (or, sometimes, a lot different) in the details.
So far I have replaced the gravity flow sewer hose with a macerator pump system (actually quite easy and not so expensive), moved the small table from inside the wardrobe to the outside wall of the wardrobe behind the drivers seat, DW made some cloth pads with velcro to stick in the rear windows instead of using the rear curtain, added a knife rack in the pantry, added a weather station with outside temperature (this one didn't work - exterior temperature sensor quit working), and installed an external GPS antenna above the right front seat at the right-hand sky light window.
Replace the tank level sensors and guage
I'm tired of the tank level sensors and monitor panel in my 2002 RT C190P. I never know if they are right or not, plus, having tank levels in thirds is a little less information than I would like about the tank levels.
I see some information about the SeeLevel outside-of-tank sensors. They look pretty good, based on the information I'm finding on the web.
It looks like one attaches the sensors strip to the outside of the tanks to be monitored to the existing sensor wires, replaces the existing RT monitor panel with the new panel, again using the existing wiring, and it's done (although I'll be surprised if it's really that easy).
Anyone change out their stock RT monitor panel and tank sensors with the SeeLevel, or similiar, units? Information?
TIA
RE: 2d Auxilliary Battery: Necessity or Nicety?
This coach has an Onan 2.8kw generator, so how long does it take to charge the aux battery?
The Onan Microlite 2800 puts out 23.3 amps. A 100 amp/hour battery usually should not be discharged more than about 80% (20% charge remaining). To charge 80 amp/hours with a 23.3 amp supply would theoretically take just under 3.5 hours.
However, it doesn't work that way.
First, different chargers supply differing amounts of voltage and current to the battery during the charge period. So the first variable is the charger used between the generator and the battery.
Second, as the battery becomes charged the internal resistance increases allowing less charging current to enter the battery. This is a non-linear function so it isn't easy to figgure out.
The short answer to you question is - it takes a long time for a generator putting out 23.3 amps to fully charge a depleted 100 amp/hour battery. I'm taking an educated guess at in excess of 24 hours.
The engine alternator, on the other hand, charges the battery directly without going through a charger - just like it does the start battery in the vehicle - and will, therefore, charge the house battery much faster.
Someone may have more exact information.
RE: Rolling with Refer - Propane or DC?
Seems to me the question/problem isn't really what's legal or ethical or moral or even, to some extent, what's safer. It's the fact that the RV 2-way or 3-way refrigerators don't all work the same and we all operate under different ambient conditions.
Some of us have no problem keeping the frig cold on AC, Propane, or 12VDC. Some of us have a problem keeping everything cold on 12VDC but AC and Propane work fine.
Well, mine happens to work fine on 12VDC, looks like I'm lucky. But, if it didn't work satisfactorily on 12VDC, like many of you out there, I would have the same two or three options you do.
1. Run on 12VDC anyway and let the frig, and it's contents, warm up.
2. Run the generator (if I have one) and operate on AC.
3. Turn on the propane and run on propane.
I guess there might be a fourth choice - forget the refrigerator and bring an ice chest.
It's good to share information and find out what others are doing with a similar problem but in the end we all make the best choice we can from what we have to work with, I believe.
RE: Rolling with Refer - Propane or DC?
In my 2002 C190P RT the Dometic 2352 3-way frig draws 12.5 amps at 12VDC (at least according to the label inside the door of the frig). Thats about 6 hours on a 100 amp-hour deep cycle battery (discharge to 20%) and well within the charging capacity of the alternator.
RE: Rolling with Refer - Propane or DC?
I NEVER trave with the propane valve open. A small leak due to vibration or movement could be catastrophic. I travel on 12VDC, then switch to propane if stopping for more than an hour or two without access to 115VAC or switch to AC if available.
The Dometic 3-way in our RT C190P actually works very well on 12VDC, but, granted, not as well as on 115VAC or Propane. On AC or Propane I set the dial on 4. When I switch to DC I set the dial on 5 to 5-1/2. I don't really notice any change in the interior temperature with this procedure.
But, each frig tends to work slightly (or significantly) different under different conditions.
RE: Roadtrek Fueling Problems
While my Rt was up on the lift for an oil change this morning, I looked at the fuel filler hose from the filler port to the tank (at least what I could see of it). The hose, on my RT, routs from the filler port over the rear wheel well, then dips down in front of the wheel well, under the hot water heater, but then rises slightly before dissapearing toward the gas tank. That slight dip creates a sort of "p trap" in the gas filler hose. I'm assuming that between the dip I can see and the gas tank the hose rises above the top of the tank, creating and traping a pocket of air that restricts fuel flow when the tank gets about full, depending on the orentation of the vehicle (level, nose up, nose down).
Don't see anything I can do about it, so I guess I'll just live with it. But, now I understand (I think) what's going on with the fuel filling problem.
RE: Roadtrek Fueling Problems
The fuel fill anomaly on my RT is only slightly irritating for me. Usually taking the extra time to fill up isn't an issue, with two notable exceptions.
In stations where I can't get level or nose slightly down. If the nose is up, even slightly, I can't fill the tank no matter what. So, I look for stations, or an approach to the pump, where I can get the nose down a little or at least be level.
The other exception is in Oregon. Oregon has a state law that prohibits anyone except the attendant from sticking the nozzle in the filler hole and pumping gas. This means that, in Oregon, I can't pump my own gas. This means that, in Oregon, I can't get the tank full because the attendant is not inclined to stand there and slowly feed gas into the tank.
RE: Roadtrek Fueling Problems
My 2002 C190P has a similar problem, although not quite a severe as what you are describing. I find that if I don't lock the gas nozzle on full blast but lock the nozzle on it's lowest notch and feed the gas in slower I have less problems. That is until I get to the last 4 or 5 gallons. Then, I have to hand feed it very slowly in spurts and let the gas settle down into the tank with pauses of 10 seconds or so between spurts. Also, having the nose of the RT down slightly seems to help mine to get the gas to run down into the tank. On mine, it doesn't seem to make much difference where or how I put the nozzle into the filler port.
I have heard/read some information to the effect that when RoadTrek relocated the gas tank they used too small of a filler tube making it difficult to impossible to completly fill the tank. Maybe someone else can confirm or deny this.
RE: Just Back from 3,600 mi trip - Notes:
islandman - If one gets off of the interstate anywhere in N. Idaho or Montana or Wyoming and takes any of the numerous secondary roads it's difficult to make a bad choice. However, I agree that highway 12 and 43 are up there around the top of the bunch.
We have driven highway 12 across Idaho a few times prior and we had reservations at a campground in Billings that evening (big mistake - the reservations, not the campground)so we didn't stop this trip.
Common you guys back east. Get out here. We're talking about some of the best RVing anywhere.
RE: Just Back from 3,600 mi trip - Notes:
JoeRT04 wrote: "We are planning a cross country trip next year.
We have been looking at the Cody Wyoming area and the Buffalo Bill areas there.
Can you tell us what the points to see there and is it a worth a stop in that area?"
Well, it's difficult to say whether it's worth a stop for you or not. It all depends on what you are interested in. I see you are from Cape Cod. Cody has about zero in common with Cape Cod (well, maybe McDonalds). If you are interested in the real west, Cody is about as real as it gets. If you are interested in the real old west, Cody has seen it all - cowboys, indians, cavelry, outlaws, lawmen, prospectors and miners, mountain men, pioneers - and a lot of pieces are left around to see and experience.
Trail Town is a collection of 26 vintage buildings from the region dating from 1879 to 1901. Want to go in a walk around in the cabin where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid planned a bank robbery? It's there. So is Jeremiah Johnson's grave (and the graves of some other notable mountain men and assorted old west characters).
The Buffalo Bill Historical Center is a lot more than just about Buffalo Bill, although there is a lot about him. This is 5 museums and a research center. Plan of spending a big part of the day here.
Take a look at the web sites for both of these attractions.
Also, don't limit your field of view to just the Cody city limits. The real west and the real old west is still there, out in the country side in every direction for hundreds of miles on every ranch, in every town and along every stream and highway. Stop and look around. Talk to the people (you will find them quite friendly and informative).
On second thought - yes, this is definately worth a stop for a few days for you.
RE: Just Back from 3,600 mi trip - Notes:
tjmb - regarding cost of trip. I estimate $150/day for gas, campground fees, entertainment (entrance fees etc.), an occasional meal out, and some resupply (fresh veggies, fruit, milk, etc.) along the way. That is within 10% for us.
One could go a bit less expensive - stay in state and national park and forest campgrounds or rest stops and WalMart instead of KOA and Good Sam (we like our hot showers and some creature comforts however). I get 12.5 - 13 MPG at 75 mph down the interstate but 15 - 16.5 mpg at 55 - 60 mph on the secondary roads (slowing down does save gas). We don't count the cost of food we take because we would eat it if we stayed home.
Hope this helps.
Just Back from 3,600 mi trip - Notes:
2002 RT C190P
Wife, Darla the Dachshund, and Me (in that order).
14 days, 3,591 mi total.
Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota.
Points of Impression:
1. Highway 12 from Lewiston, ID to Missoula, MT.
2. Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, MT.
3. Devil's Tower, SD.
4. Waking up to snow in the Black Hills, SD.
5. Crazy Horse Memorial, Indian Museum of North America.
6. Wounded Knee Memorial at Wall, SD.
7. Fort Laramie N.H.S., WY.
8. Wind River Canyon, WY.
9. Herds of Pronghorn Antelope in WY.
10. Trail Town, Cody, WY.
11. Buffalo Bill Hist. Center, Cody, WY.
12. Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, WY 296, Cody to Yellowstone N.P.
13. Yellowstone N.P., WY.
14. Virginia City and Nevada City, MT.
15. MT 43 from Divide to U.S. 93.
16. Big Hole National Battlefield, MT.
17. U.S. 93 & ID 75 from MT/ID border to Ketchum ID via Stanley, ID.
18. Lots of deer and Antelope along the way with some Elk, Moose and Bison (also lots of bunnies, ground squirrels and chipmunks)
19. Breathtaking mountain vistas, high deserts and prairies, old homesteads and ranches, small old towns.
20. Great people (mostly).
General Observations:
1. Very, very light traffic most of the trip. Often, no vehicle in sight ahead or behind for 5 - 10 minutes at a time. (it was great)
2. Noticeable absence of RV's on the road or in campgrounds. Campgrounds at 10% - 25% capacity.
3. Saw more than usual B's (10-12) - mostly RT and Pleasure Way with one Great West (nice folks from Quebec) and a couple of unidentified units.
4. Fuel Prices: $3.69 to $4.49.
5.Is this one beautiful country or what?
BTW: First long trip with new Toyo Open Country H/T tires and Les Schwab RMX Monotube shocks. Excellent combination - nice, quiet ride and great handling.
Black Streaks on Fiberglass and on Steel
RoadTrek mobile cave have black streaks on fiberglass top and some of steel sides.
Me no like black streaks.
Me need chemical help to remove black streaks on fiberglass top and on steel sides.
Me want product so easy even a cave man can do it.
Also, me want to know if the black streak remover stuff remove wax.
What should me go hunting for?
:h
